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Clean the outside with saddle soap. Don't just rub it on, use
it with a damp rag as if it were soap, then rub the leather dry. By this
time you are probably ready to enhance the look with a leather treatment.
Don't use silicone or any product intended for, or used on shoes. I hesitate
to recommend anything specific, check out what they have at Walmart, it
will be as good as anything
you can get elsewhere. Some things rub off on your clothes, some
darken, some shine. ( see advise from tannery below ) I use "Leather Balm"
on my oak tanned, hand stained leather belts.
Chances are that even after 2 years, unless you have repeatedly
gotten the leather wet, it won't really have to have something on it to
keep the leather from cracking. You can tell from the feel if the leather
is getting stiff or not. If it is, it's time for a leather conditioner.
Or... just buy a new one... it's probably time for a change anyway :-)
If the leather stays dry it will give you years of use. What
really destroys leather is mold growing on the leather. It feeds on the
fibers, eventually the leather goes dry and powdery similar to dry rot
in wood. Just putting on oil will not repair the leather. If it gets wet
it will eventually need to have the oil in the leather restored for looks
and flexibility, but more importantly it should not be left in a damp enclosed
environment where mold can grow. Dry the leather, out of the sun, preferably
in a room with a dehumidifier. Lay it out in the shape you want it to be
until dry.
I asked representative from a U.S. tannery, who supplies some
of my leather, to comment on my leather care advise. This is his reply:
" You have covered everything I can think of quite accurately. The only thing I might mention is that when informing customers on applying oils, conditioners, silicones, etc. that they make sure that they do not have a solvent in them. Most leather, and all our leather is made with water based finishes. If a oil or conditioner has a solvent in it, the solvent could destroy the finish."
I think what we are talking about here are things like
Acetone ( which is in nail polish remover ) and other petroleum based thinners.
I have had people do some crazy things with leather, like washing their
glazed sheepskin coat in the bath tub, pouring Coca Cola on leather, and
heating leather in their oven. Please do not do these things, contact me
first if you have a special problem.
These are some of the products that are used in finishing handmade
leather goods. Some may be helpful if you have damage or wear on your leather
item.
They are available from the Leathergoodsconnection.com
Leather Care page where their use is described. You can also see how
they are used for making handmade belts with the link below.
How to make a leather belt Make a leather handbag
Don't use anything but a damp cloth and mild soap on upholstery
leather. That goes for the Titanic Deck Chair as well as the Directors
Chair. You may want to do something with the wood, either when new, or
after it starts to go gray, but you don't have to. What you do with the
wood depends on the look you want. Take the leather off before working
on the wood and don't put it back till the finish is dry. If you want to
use varnish or urethane do it when you first get the chair and touch up
nicks when they happen. Contact me All e-mail answered
promptly
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As you might imagine the design considerations for making a bag out
of stiff heavy leather, hand laced through holes banged in with a hole
punch are quite different than those for a handbag made of soft leather
with a lot of features. We have to skive, cement, fold, split and bind.
There are zippers as well as fasteners to install. Several layers of leather
in one place have to smoothly flow into one layer without producing unsightly
lumps that jam in binders when sewn. The parts must be capable of being
assembled in such a way that the operations can be done easily and accurately
time after time.
Besides the design considerations that pertain to the actual
making of the product there are other factors to consider. The product
must be designed to meet the needs of a specific market. These needs can
limit the degree of sophistication of the finished product as well as the
quality of the components. I can work with customers to produce the
best looking products for their market within the given constraints.
If what you are looking for is more detailed information about
construction methods and materials sources to make products yourself there
is a quality link below, under design history. For a step by step tutorial
hit on, "The Making of a Custom Handbag" or "Making a Designer Handbag
from a Photo".
For my own products I have taken craftsmanship to a new level
by making leather goods with finished edges that are fully lined as well
as stronger, lighter, and more pleasurable to use by incorporating Hi-tech
fabric "linings" into them. This "lining" material is a bonded fabric similar
to sail cloth and was not made to be used as a lining material. It was
designed to be the actual outer part and is much too expensive for regular
competitive manufactured goods to use as a lining.
I have made bags from canvas, and canvas and leather, but was
never happy with the "Same old, Same old" result. With my exposure to high
tech materials as a sail maker I became convinced that sail fabrics would
make a far superior product when combined with leather than cotton duck
or canvas.
There is a practical aspect to all this. 'All leather' products
can become heavy and bulky. The pockets for the most part, especially a
stack of patch pockets, are almost useless. They can't hold anything of
any size and one can't get their hand in there to get anything out.
Normally the fabric linings used in leather goods come from
the garment industry. They are thin and inexpensive, but they cannot match
leather for strength and durability. Modern sail cloth, however, is STRONGER
than leather. Sail cloth doesn't fray or stretch and is practically waterproof
and is stain resistant. It has it's problems though. It isn't particularly
soft, it's white and it's expensive.
Well, I've solved those problems, except for the expensive part.
I now have a special bonded fabric, in charcoal and black, that I am incorporating
in my handbags and wallets. These leather goods are now lighter, stronger,
and more functional than ever before. All leather on the outside, all strong
and safe on the inside. If you like the looks of the outside, you'll like
the inside also and you'll like using your purchase even more.
You will perhaps see that my designs while sophisticated in
construction and finished to a high degree, express a return to basic values
that I hope you will appreciate.
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In the 60's and early 70's handmade leather goods became popular. Perhaps
due to the political environment people wanted a return to basic styles.
Or perhaps these crude handmade items seemed "Real", "Natural", or even
"New". Perhaps they were popular because they represented the freedom of
the people who made them. Apparently the rejection of the values
of the 50's included the rejection of factory "Machine Made" goods also.
Do not think that these handmade goods represented how far advanced
the leather goods industry was at that time. Better quality leather goods
had been made for thousands of years. This was a case of reinventing the
wheel and learning by doing.
These "Hand Made" goods were made with simple basic tools. They
had elements of western kit type leather goods that one might make at summer
camp. They had the Hippy look rather than the western look by having simple
stamped designs as a colorful decoration rather than the heavy all over
tooling of the standard western look.
They were made of Oak Tanned leather and laced together with
rawhide. This led to the yellow Latigo leather phase which was basically
the same, but with a more pliable leather that could be easily buffed to
highlight a stamped design. This method was even faster and easier and
in most cases did not have the colors of the Hippy era.
Softer leather bags became popular as this phase matured and
as craftsmen came up with better designs and put stress on function rather
than decoration. Some were hand cut and sewn but one soon appreciated
the benefits of the sewing machine and die cutting. Even though we were
now using sewing machines to sew the bags together we still called them
"Hand Made".
I was in Lynn Ma. in the Shop of Walter Dyer in the 70's and
I remember asking, him how he handled it when customers asked if the goods
were hand made, he replied, "I say, they are as hand made as they
can be". The bag below is one that we were making at this time.
As the level of sophistication increased more machinery was
required. With soft leather and the use of machinery the choices
and complexity have increased dramatically. Some makers still try to pass
off simple construction methods as high quality goods. Some haven't mastered
the more difficult methods that produce a more finished look, some are
simply getting by without updating their products. Some of these shortcuts
are covered under Quality Construction Methods.
There is more on this subject below the following information.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you would like to learn how to make leather goods or are a
leather crafter and would like to improve your skills I have found a source
for leather craft information, material sources and manuals that
cover the skills and methods that you need. The methods that you can learn
from this site predate the time period I am discussing here. The handmade
methods discussed are far superior to the methods we used in the
70's and come from the time when the skills and craftsmanship of individuals
was at it's height. The author is an experienced leatherworker who's intention
is to pass on the skills he learned from his Grandfather and from years
of working in the industry. These are the methods that made English leather
goods famous for quality. He explained it to me this way.
"I left school at 14 & I went to work for one of the top firms
in London where I learnt more from the old timers who had worked on into
their 70's as all the younger men had been called up. ( For service in
W.W. 2) That company like a few others like it has now gone, they made
all goods by hand & supplied top London Stores. The training was intense
you had to be able to make anything even from a diagram & produce patterns.
The only company that I am aware of that still does this is Hermes of France."
So! if I can't make you what you want... you have to go to Hermes! Sorry
There is a lot of information on his site http://www.theleatherconnection.com
That site predates this one and is not affiliated in any way other than
the similarity of the name. I'm just passing on the information for those
with an interest in leather craft who want more information than I am able
to put here. Even if you do not intend to make leather goods yourself his
manuals will give you valuable and interesting information.